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Kickstarter ist kein Geschäft. New plug-in chain is now also available. Finanzierungszeitraum Mai 11, - Jun 10, 30 Tage. Einmal per App mit dem Smartphone gekoppelt, erkennt ein Bluetooth-Sensor im Schloss, wenn sich der Besitzer mit dem Handy in der Tasche nähert und wieder entfernt. This gives you the flexibility to choose how you want to lock your bike. If the alarm is active and someone tries to lift up your bike or tries to cut the locking bolt I LOCK IT will recognize this and set off a dB loud alarm. But building the tools and starting the mass production requires a lot of capital. To achieve this we use the latest technology in a way that it allows a simple and outstanding user experience. We are all excited about our product and confident that it will make life easier and bike riding more enjoyable. Thank you for your support. Dass Speichen im Weg sein andrea petkovic, ist naheliegend, man hätte lediglich das Prism casino bonus codes 2019 abschrägen müssen, meist schiebt sich dann das Rad fisherman allein zurecht. Twittern Teilen Pinnen E-Mail. Alles das vielleicht bei Version kostenlos jewels spielen. Just watch the videos below to see how it's done. Die Lagerung des Rundbügels ist notdürftig bzw. If the alarm is active and someone tries to lift up your bike or tries to cut the locking bolt I LOCK IT will recognize this and set off a dB loud alarm. Sobald die App einmal aktiv ist musst du dein Smartphone nicht mehr aus deiner Tasche holen. Measure the distance from your rear bike rim to the top of the tire or the fender. If the alarm is active and someone tries to lift up your bike or tries to cut the locking bolt I LOCK IT will recognize this and set off a dB loud alarm. Danke bereits für deine Unterstützung. Du kannst dich einfach von deinem Fahrrad weg bewegen und dir sicher sein, dass es abgeschlossen ist. Dein Fahrrad zu sichern war noch nie so einfach. Just get on your bike and ride. Haveltec is a young startup which develops products that make life easier and more comfortable. Das nächste Mal, wenn du damit fahren willst, kannst du also einfach in der App nachsehen wo du es abgestellt hast. Anbringen kann man "I Lock It" an jedem Fahrradrahmen, entweder an bereits vorhandene Haltevorrichtungen überm Hinterrad oder mit handelsüblichen Zusatzhalterungen, die andere Schlosshersteller für ihre eigenen Rahmenschlösser anbieten. You want to let your friends or family use your bike, but you're not around to give them the key? To achieve this we use the latest technology in a way that it allows a simple and outstanding user experience. So if you are in a shop or cafe nearby you can still react and protect your bike. Du willst Freunden oder deiner Familie münchen umriss Fahrrad ausleihen, bist eurovision 2019 plätze nicht da um den Schlüssel zu übergeben? Das nächste Mal, wenn du damit fahren willst, kannst du also einfach in der App nachsehen wo du es abgestellt hast. Informationen Anbieter haveltec GmbH. Keine Verbindungsprobleme Beste Spielothek in Strössendorf finden letztem Update 7. We've got you covered. Wir haben eine Lösung für dich. Mai 11, - Jun 10, 30 Tage. Haveltec is a young startup which develops products pokerstars casino fehler make life easier and more comfortable. You want to let your friends or family use your bike, but you're not around to give them the key? Familienfreigabe Wenn die Familienfreigabe aktiviert ist, können bis zu sechs Familienmitglieder diese App verwenden. Just watch the videos below to see how it's done. No need to search for your keys.

I would really like just a Blank Screen when they click the Start and go to the Metro Start, but if the user starts to type, I do not want it to start the Search… is there a way to Lock the Search?

There are some great tips specific to that I very much appreciate. In my earlier terminal services deployments. I had enable in GP a setting to not show computers near me to prevent users from seeing the network resources in our domain.

This no longer works. Hi Brian, Try the following link http: Could you advise how I can turn off the ability of Domain Admins or selected domain admins by adding them to an OU or Group to restart or shutdown the Session Host itself, but retain their ability to initiate other systems like CMD, browsing back to C and all other drives and network browsing etc?

Just one question for you, I have users getting their custom pc settings put back to the default after they log in and out of a remote terminal session.

For example, the cursor blink rate is set to fast for all users except the administrator on the remote server.

When users change it to a speed they prefer and logs off then logs back in, it changes back to fast. Is there a way to reverse all of these changes so that the Administrator account has access to Admin Tools, etc?

Re-read this great post and make sure you do the step with ensuring the Group Policies only apply to certain user and computers.

I followed all the instructions, and the RemoteApp user can create folders and save files both to the RD Session host C: Hopefully you can give me the hint that will make it work.

Technet Forum post — https: These are both available via the Win-X shortcut and I would like to lock them down. Hope you can help.

Hi, I have made some changes and it seems that GPOs are working but right now I have the following behavior: Not even in their Documents folder.

I never have all the Little things in my head. Now at this place i can look everytime i do a new TS.. Thank you very much.

Real helpful blog, thank you. I have a TS set up across 4 servers. I even deleted the local profile of the test account after making all of the GPO changes and it is still not working.

Here is a list of items I have changed the ACLs on: I am using Software Restrictions because the above technique did not prevent our users from accessing the Powershell console.

Are there more than one Computer Management console? Restricted users from accessing C-Drive, folder redirection, TS profile, etc.

Same popup for Admin credentials and he presses cancel and the setup continues to install on his C: The same thing he did with Dropbox! Anyone the same problem?

I have seen this edit suggestion on many sites, but this is the first time I have seen anyone else with this issue. Hoping someone has a suggestion.

This setting is not present in the Local Computer Policy object. I followed your post and everything is working like it should for normal users.

Unfortunatly for Administrator users we have problems with the file restrictions. For some reason it keeps on saying that domain admins do not have permission to access the files when they log on.

Now when they click on it once for adminsitrative tools it gives them that pop up with the prompt to continue and actually give it the access.

Any way to resolve this so that my domain admins do not get the annoying pop up everytime they log on? The exact message of the popup: This file does not have a program associated with it for performing this action.

Please install a program or, if one is already installed, create an association in the Default Programs control panel. But when I browse to it, it shows that Server Manager.

Any ideas how to resolve this little annoying issue? Even new domain admins get that popup. Hi, Please make sure that the GPO is applied to your specific group i.

RDS users , not to Authenticated Users group. I think the main thing to remember in an environment with terminal server and desktops is to use loopback policy so users get the right policy for the right environment.

Is there any way to lockdown users from open command prompt, but yes allow logon script and batch file to run? It would be easier to implement it if you would export your GPO and we could download it.

Or please send it to me per Mail. Drive in File Explorer. They can still open from the start menu app list though and if I pin file explorer from the app list to the task bar it opens fine.

Has anyone else experienced this? I also have the issue where many of my users login to a local domain joined workstation in addition to working externally on the RDS servers.

The problem is that i want the GPO to apply to users when they connect to the RDS farm, i do not want these restrictions like hiding C: Some of these people have both a local pc and need to access the RDS Servers extenally.

So the question is, how can i apply all the restrictions of this GPO which is exactly what i want but without also affecting users who login locally.

Also…we deliver an application to customers via app services for legacy VB6 apps…is there a way to remove their ability to log into a desktop they can only launch a remote app?

I am looking to restrict certain applications for certain Admins. My R2 RDS server is hosted at a providers datacenter.

I have a static VPN between the 2 sites and it works fine. Any way in windows to force them to come back across the VPN and browse out my firewall?

This information made me really happy. I would like to add one more setting to enable. Thanks for the write up! In using this, I have a question as regards to Computer Configuration sections.

Since they are not in the security group, the user section of the gp policy will not apply to the, correct?

All Computer settings will be applied for all users including administrator. I need to update the article but did not have time to do this. Basically recommendation is to apply as much settings as possible in User Configuration instead of Computer Configuration.

I refer to this excellent document every time I build an RDS server. Thanks for this outstanding resource to the community!

User still can see C:. I was cruising through it and then ran into some obstacles. When I remove the server from the GPO none of the policies, including user policies work?

I verified loopback processing, merge is enabled. I am having this issue. How do I hide computer and network from this view. At top it says system tools.

Your email address will not be published. We will process your orders as quickly as possible and appreciate your patience.

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Often these types of failures. I f you do not see a video cell above, click on the free download link: Adobe Flash Player version I got my lathe down to about 85 rpm.

It makes a groaning sound at low speed, but has plenty of torque. There was a lengthy post on the message board by Jose Rodiques on how to change the speed.

It is still there, way down on the message board list, if you look for it. Mark the original positions on each pot before you make any adjustments.

Unplug the lathe and take off the 4 screws over the power panel. Then lay it down and remove the 4 screws holding the plastic cover.

Look on the right edge of the small board where there are 3 pots for adjustment. Plug the lathe back in and dial in the slowest speed on the control panel.

Use an insulated handle screwdriver in the pots. The "speed" pot slows the lathe speed down and turn it in a direction to slow down the lathe.

It will go quite slow, but will start to chatter as it slows too much. Turn the "torque" pot to increase the torque and decrease the chatter.

You can hold some resistance on the chuck backplate with your fingers to check the chatter and torque.

The top "both" pot seems to help remove the chatter at low speeds too. Too bad some electronic type hasn't put an oscilloscope on the output. I think what this does is generate a good low frequency square wave.

Give it a try. If you don't like the results, you can always put the 3 pots back to the original positions. I cut off most of the heads of the socket head cap screws on both the cross-feed and compound rest handles to about 0.

I was hitting my knuckles on the long socket head screw. No more banged knuckles. The new camera sure takes clear pictures. I made a milling attachment.

I removed the compound rest and drilled a similar hole pattern in one face of the angle plate so that it mounts in place of the compound rest and rotates and clamps in any position.

On the other face of the angle plate, I drilled two hole patterns so the compound rest could be mounted vertically either near or far and both with the vise opening at the lathe center line with the compound rest in the center of its travel.

Then I removed the toolpost bolt from the compound rest and drilled four holes in the top of the compound rest and a similar pattern in the cheap drill vise so I can bolt it to the compound rest.

All of this gives me X-Y-Z motion with the drill vise to hold the work and the lathe chuck holds the end mill.

I needed to tighten the slide adjustment screws on both the cross slide and compound rest for milling operations, but it works fine. I made a plastic cover and fastened it to the inside of the apron with 3 tiny screws so chips will not get in the hand wheel gears.

I was having all kind of trouble with chips getting in there. Now the gears stay clean and run free. Look at about Here is a better view of it.

When boring a hole, chips wander into the headstock bore and fall into the change gears. I made a plug out of plastic to fit the hole in the back side of the headstock.

The plug is a friction fit into the headstock and prevents chips from getting it the gears. When you need something to pass completely through the headstock, it is a simple matter to remove the plug and blow the chips out toward the chuck.

The Mini Lathe lists gear settings for 18 different inch threads. Here is a photograph of the gear change chart. Using only the supplied gears, the Mini Lathe will cut many more inch threads than listed on the chart.

Also with only the supplied gears, there are many metric threads that can be cut with sufficient pitch accuracy for a few diameters of thread engagement.

For example, the lathe will cut 8, 10, 11, 56, 64, 72, 80 TPI plus many more threads per inch. The program for calculating the gear settings is free and you can also check the program for correctness by selecting a thread pitch that is already on the lathe's thread chart.

Here is an example output for cutting 1 mm threads, 11, and 56 threads per inch. It allows for extra gears and includes either the inch or metric lead screw.

Unzip it and it will create a C: Do a Find for Gears. Double click on the Gears Icon and run the program. It is easy to understand and run.

It will save your available gears and lead screw type settings on exit. Note that Paul does not do any checking on gear sizes and some combinations that are listed might not fit on the lathe.

This is a reduced size screen view of the GearsVB program. It works very well and is very easy to use. Screen Shot of the Latest Version of gearsvb Paul Bussieres had updated the gearsvb It also allows the user to define his gear list and lead screw pitch.

Download it to the C: It will create a C: Let the chips fly. You can delete the. If you want to run the gears program in DOS, this if for you. I have updated the BASIC program so that the user can select inch or metric lead screw and can add an additional gear of from 10T to T to the gear set.

The small amount of error for the 1 mm metric thread will not affect thread engagements where the nut or female threads are only one or two diameters in depth.

EXE 38K and save the file to a directory of your choice. The program will ask you if you want inch threads or metric threads.

Merely follow the instructions. A small file, named TOUT. TXT, will be created by the calculation and it will contain the results displayed on the screen for later printing.

Let me know by email how it runs or if you have improvements. EXE and double clicking on the file. For this example, the 47T gear was not needed for the results but was used in the calculations.

That is the finest feed possible with the stock gears and here are the settings. This is still a pretty coarse feed for finishing cuts.

Mike Carrollton made these gear measurements on the Mini Lathe's change gears: All Electronics Corp has various metric gears with the same pitch at the change gears as on the Mini Lathe.

If you do a search and look for gears, you will find them. The holes are a different size, but with a Mini Lathe extra jack shafts can be made to fit them.

It took me about an hour to open up the bore, cut the gear to the correct width, and file a keyway in it. The additional gear is for cutting Metric threads more accurately than with the stock gears.

The next best gear would be one of approximately half that size or 63 teeth. But a smaller gear would be almost as good except for the 3 mm thread.

You can get an idea of the improved accuracy for Metric threads for adding an extra gear of 18, 21, or 63 teeth. The 18 tooth gear has an additional advantage in that it would be useful for the fine feed where it would allow a feed of TPI, compared to the standard TPI with the stock gears.

In the Table, the bold numbers show an improvement over stock gears. I have ordered the Boston Gear catalog for spur gears. They are supposed to have gears in "open stock".

Also, if they are not too expensive, a couple of 96 tooth gears would make a TPI fine feed for finishing cuts.

Here is a table of gear settings for Metric threads with the stock gears plus an extra 21T gear included. There are more combinations that work, but I have made sure that a large gear is on the lead screw to improve the mechanical advantage in turning it.

EXE program now includes the 21T gear. The program runs on a PC. I don't know if it will run on a Mac with PC simulation software.

EXE program, during downloading, so that it won't run. If you have a problem, email me and I will attach the file to a return email. I have mounted the dial indicator on the tailstock so that I can trim the length of cartridge brass and read the length on the dial indicator as I cut.

This setup makes a first class case trimmer. I do a number of reloading operations on the Mini Lathe. It is a very handy tool on the reloading bench.

Here is the High Speed counter-bore with a tight fitting pilot made from the valve stem of an old engine intake valve - really tough steel that fits the case mouth and the shell holder that fits in the tailstock chuck.

The pilot was finished with grit paper and then polished with Flitz Metal Polish on a rag. This gives a very smooth finish so the pilots turns smoothly in the case mouth.

It is sturdy, the correct size for the 7x10 lathe , and very well made. It is easily adjustable for the correct tool height. Here is a photo of it in operation taking a finishing cut on a cylinder of aluminum.

Tool bit grinding is an art form in itself. It is fun to look through a machinists tool bit collection for the way his tool bits are ground.

With a little practice, you will find other useful tool shapes that work, but this is a good start for the beginner. The Work Horse tool gets the most use.

It is primarily made for removing metal fast and easily. The point a is where most of the cutting is done toward the chuck. The edge between a and b is parallel to the top surface of the tool top face and is the cutting edge.

The point b is used for facing cuts as the tool travels toward the center using the cross slide. The second view shows the points of the tools so you can see the angles of relief and rake.

The tool for Finishing Cuts has a rounded cutting surface c and is only useful for fine cuts. The Parting tool makes about as wide and deep a parting cut you can make with the Mini Lathe.

The width at d is about 0. You merely plunge the tool where you want to cut-off a piece of work. If you need a deeper cut than it will accomplish, you finish it off with a hack saw.

All of these tools are ground to work with the cutting edge at the lathe center and the shank mounted parallel to the cross-slide travel. There is an end view of the same four Tool Bits so you can get an idea of how they are ground.

After grinding the tool points, the cutting edge will need honing. To position the tool, hold the gauge on the tool point and make sure the opposite side is parallel to the work or lathe axis.

I grind my HSS tool bits on the medium grit wheel. I have a cup of cold water for keeping the tool bits cool. After I finish grinding the desired shape, I make a final smoothing cut on the Silicon Carbide wheel which leaves a very fine finish.

Then I hone the tool bit to get it really sharp. The Aluminum Oxide wheel will not readily grind the carbide tool bits and merely heats them up and dulls the grinding wheel in the process.

The Silicon Carbide wheel grinds the Tungsten Carbide tool bits well, but the wheel wears away much faster than an Aluminum Oxide wheel.

After grinding for 10 to 15 seconds plunge the tool bit in the cold water to keep it cool. It becomes like art to continue grinding at the same place and angle between trips to the cup of cold water.

I would suggest getting a single point diamond wheel dresser. Also after you mount the grinding wheel, and tighten the nut, rotate it by hand and see if the face runs true.

If it doesn't, fuss with it a bit and try different positions until the run-out is the best you can get. This simple step helped quite a bit in reducing grinder vibrations.

Then true the face with the diamond wheel dresser. Do your grinding on the face of the wheels, not on the sides. I only engage the gears them when I cut threads or really need the longitudinal feed.

Getting a smooth finishing cut with brass or aluminum is relative easily done with a very sharp round nosed finishing HSS tool bit and a fine lead screw feed.

If you try the same thing with mild steel, it will look and feel rough in comparison. Here is something to try and see how it works. Check the looks and feel of the cut.

It will be rough to the touch and feel like a cat's tongue. Advance the tool another 0. Just this tiny amount of lubrication will make a marked difference in the smoothness of the final cut.

The lubrication will allow the chip to curl up and away from the cutting area and not get caught between the edge of the tool and the work.

This is the finest feed possible with the stock gears and here are the settings. I have installed a tiny 2. There is a short aluminum shaft that extends to accept the motor shaft.

I used a piece of bamboo shish kebab stick for a shear pin. Don't laugh, it works! By the way, I use these bamboo shish kebab sticks for a lot of different things.

They work fine for mixing epoxy, annealing case necks, and any use that requires a long shaft that is strong and flexible.

it lock -

Dann kann man einen 8-stelligen Code eintippen. Keine Verbindungsprobleme nach letztem Update 7. In einem ersten Test vor dem Büro von n-tv. Schick uns bitte eine Nachricht an kickstarter ilockit. Einmal per App mit dem Smartphone gekoppelt, erkennt ein Bluetooth-Sensor im Schloss, wenn sich der Besitzer mit dem Handy in der Tasche nähert und wieder entfernt. Weitere Informationen zur Rechenschaftspflicht. Ein zweites Fahrradschloss ist also nicht notwendig. Da wir eng mit Produktionspartnern aus der Umgebung zusammenarbeiten können wir Kommunikationsschwierigkeiten vermeiden und so eine bessere Qualität liefern und die Zeit zur Markteinführung verkürzen.

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By default, Remote Desktop Services allows users to disconnect from a Remote Desktop Services session without logging off and ending the session.

When a session is in a disconnected state, running programs are kept active even though the user is no longer actively connected.

By default, these disconnected sessions are maintained for an unlimited time on the server. If you enable this policy setting, disconnected sessions are deleted from the server after the specified amount of time.

To enforce the default behavior that disconnected sessions are maintained for an unlimited time, select Never. If you have a console session, disconnected session time limits do not apply.

Set time limit for logoff of RemoteApp sessions: By default, if a user closes a RemoteApp program, the session is disconnected from the RD Session Host server, but it is not logged off.

If you enable this policy setting, when a user closes the last running RemoteApp program associated with a session, the RemoteApp session will remain in a disconnected state until the time limit that you specify is reached.

If the user starts a RemoteApp program before the time limit is reached, the user will reconnect to the disconnected session on the RD Session Host server.

If you disable or do not configure this policy setting, when a user closes the last RemoteApp program, the session will be disconnected from the RD Session Host server but it is not logged off.

This policy setting appears in both Computer Configuration and User Configuration. If both policy settings are configured, the Computer Configuration policy setting takes precedence.

Set time limit for active but idle Remote Desktop Services sessions: This policy setting allows you to specify the maximum amount of time that an active Remote Desktop Services session can be idle without user input before it is automatically disconnected.

If you enable this policy setting, you must select the desired time limit in the Idle session limit list. Remote Desktop Services will automatically disconnect active but idle sessions after the specified amount of time.

The user receives a warning two minutes before the session disconnects, which allows the user to press a key or move the mouse to keep the session active.

If you have a console session, idle session time limits do not apply. If you disable or do not configure this policy setting, the time limit is not specified at the Group Policy level.

Go to the desktop instead of Start when signing in or when all the apps on a screen are closed: This policy setting allows users to go to the desktop instead of the Start screen when they sign in, or when all the apps on a screen are closed.

This policy setting applies to all versions of Windows, and versions of Windows Server with the Desktop Experience installed. If you enable this policy setting, users will always go to the desktop when they sign in, or when all the apps on a screen are closed.

This policy setting allows you to remove the Action Center from the system control area. If you enable this policy setting, the Action Center icon is not displayed in the system notification area.

If you disable or do not configure this policy setting, the Action Center icon is displayed in the system notification area.

Remove access to use all Windows Update features: If you enable this setting, all Windows Update features are removed.

This includes blocking access to the Windows Update Web site at http: Windows automatic updating is also disabled; you will neither be notified about nor will you receive critical updates from Windows Update.

This setting also prevents Device Manager from automatically installing driver updates from the Windows Update Web site. If enabled you can configure one of the following notification options: This setting will remove all access to Windows Update features and no notifications will be shown.

This setting will show notifications about restarts that are required to complete an installation. This policy setting allows you to remove CD Burning features.

If you enable this policy setting, all features in the File Explorer that allow you to use your CD writer are removed. If you disable or do not configure this policy setting, users are able to use the File Explorer CD burning features.

This policy setting does not prevent users from using third-party applications to create or modify CDs using a CD writer. Prevents users from using My Computer to gain access to the content of selected drives.

If you enable this setting, users can browse the directory structure of the selected drives in My Computer or File Explorer, but they cannot open folders and access the contents.

Also, they cannot use the Run dialog box or the Map Network Drive dialog box to view the directories on these drives.

To use this setting, select a drive or combination of drives from the drop-down list. The icons representing the specified drives still appear in My Computer, but if users double-click the icons, a message appears explaining that a setting prevents the action.

Also, this setting does not prevent users from using programs to access local and network drives. And, it does not prevent them from using the Disk Management snap-in to view and change drive characteristics.

This policy setting allows you to configure the display of the password reveal button in password entry user experiences. If you enable this policy setting, the password reveal button will not be displayed after a user types a password in the password entry text box.

If you disable or do not configure this policy setting, the password reveal button will be displayed after a user types a password in the password entry text box.

By default, the password reveal button is displayed after a user types a password in the password entry text box. To display the password, click the password reveal button.

The policy applies to all Windows components and applications that use the Windows system controls, including Internet Explorer. Autoplay begins reading from a drive as soon as you insert media in the drive.

As a result, the setup file of programs and the music on audio media start immediately. If you enable this policy setting, Autoplay is disabled on CD-ROM and removable media drives, or disabled on all drives.

This policy setting disables Autoplay on additional types of drives. You cannot use this setting to enable Autoplay on drives on which it is disabled by default.

If you disable or do not configure this policy setting, AutoPlay is enabled. This policy setting appears in both the Computer Configuration and User Configuration folders.

If the policy settings conflict, the policy setting in Computer Configuration takes precedence over the policy setting in User Configuration.

Controls whether a user can save passwords using Remote Desktop Connection. If you enable this setting the credential saving checkbox in Remote Desktop Connection will be disabled and users will no longer be able to save passwords.

If you disable this setting or leave it not configured, the user will be able to save passwords using Remote Desktop Connection. Windows Server RDS.

Hi, i have reading out and i will definitely bookmarrk your site, just wanted to say i liked this article. If you enable this policy, users cannot view the contents of the selected drives in My Computer and Windows Explorer.

Also, they cannot use the Run dialog box, the Map Network Drive dialog box, or the Dir command to view the directories on these drives.

To use this policy, select a drive or combination of drives from the drop-down list. To allow access to all drive directories, disable this policy or select the Do not restrict drives option from the drop-down list.

This article was exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate you taking the time and effort in creating it and passing your knowledge on.

How will this affect administrators who still require full control? Is there a way to have them exempt from these policies?

I usually create a security group i. Administrator is not a member of this group and therefore the group policy is not applied to this account.

Thank you so much — It was very helpful to find all this information in one place. It was a great starting point for locking down my first RDS.

Did anyone else experience since Update 1 for 8. In my case, they can even browse some of the informative eventlogs, provided they know how to get there.

I created the policy above with respect to turning off the control panel and locking down PowerShell, Server Manager, and Administrative Tools.

I have filtered according to the groups I mentioned above and have the policy linked the the parent OU that contains the group OU. When logging in as a user in the RDSusers to either of the servers I still have access to everything.

You can delete the. If you want to run the gears program in DOS, this if for you. I have updated the BASIC program so that the user can select inch or metric lead screw and can add an additional gear of from 10T to T to the gear set.

The small amount of error for the 1 mm metric thread will not affect thread engagements where the nut or female threads are only one or two diameters in depth.

EXE 38K and save the file to a directory of your choice. The program will ask you if you want inch threads or metric threads.

Merely follow the instructions. A small file, named TOUT. TXT, will be created by the calculation and it will contain the results displayed on the screen for later printing.

Let me know by email how it runs or if you have improvements. EXE and double clicking on the file. For this example, the 47T gear was not needed for the results but was used in the calculations.

That is the finest feed possible with the stock gears and here are the settings. This is still a pretty coarse feed for finishing cuts.

Mike Carrollton made these gear measurements on the Mini Lathe's change gears: All Electronics Corp has various metric gears with the same pitch at the change gears as on the Mini Lathe.

If you do a search and look for gears, you will find them. The holes are a different size, but with a Mini Lathe extra jack shafts can be made to fit them.

It took me about an hour to open up the bore, cut the gear to the correct width, and file a keyway in it. The additional gear is for cutting Metric threads more accurately than with the stock gears.

The next best gear would be one of approximately half that size or 63 teeth. But a smaller gear would be almost as good except for the 3 mm thread.

You can get an idea of the improved accuracy for Metric threads for adding an extra gear of 18, 21, or 63 teeth. The 18 tooth gear has an additional advantage in that it would be useful for the fine feed where it would allow a feed of TPI, compared to the standard TPI with the stock gears.

In the Table, the bold numbers show an improvement over stock gears. I have ordered the Boston Gear catalog for spur gears.

They are supposed to have gears in "open stock". Also, if they are not too expensive, a couple of 96 tooth gears would make a TPI fine feed for finishing cuts.

Here is a table of gear settings for Metric threads with the stock gears plus an extra 21T gear included.

There are more combinations that work, but I have made sure that a large gear is on the lead screw to improve the mechanical advantage in turning it.

EXE program now includes the 21T gear. The program runs on a PC. I don't know if it will run on a Mac with PC simulation software. EXE program, during downloading, so that it won't run.

If you have a problem, email me and I will attach the file to a return email. I have mounted the dial indicator on the tailstock so that I can trim the length of cartridge brass and read the length on the dial indicator as I cut.

This setup makes a first class case trimmer. I do a number of reloading operations on the Mini Lathe. It is a very handy tool on the reloading bench.

Here is the High Speed counter-bore with a tight fitting pilot made from the valve stem of an old engine intake valve - really tough steel that fits the case mouth and the shell holder that fits in the tailstock chuck.

The pilot was finished with grit paper and then polished with Flitz Metal Polish on a rag. This gives a very smooth finish so the pilots turns smoothly in the case mouth.

It is sturdy, the correct size for the 7x10 lathe , and very well made. It is easily adjustable for the correct tool height.

Here is a photo of it in operation taking a finishing cut on a cylinder of aluminum. Tool bit grinding is an art form in itself.

It is fun to look through a machinists tool bit collection for the way his tool bits are ground. With a little practice, you will find other useful tool shapes that work, but this is a good start for the beginner.

The Work Horse tool gets the most use. It is primarily made for removing metal fast and easily. The point a is where most of the cutting is done toward the chuck.

The edge between a and b is parallel to the top surface of the tool top face and is the cutting edge. The point b is used for facing cuts as the tool travels toward the center using the cross slide.

The second view shows the points of the tools so you can see the angles of relief and rake. The tool for Finishing Cuts has a rounded cutting surface c and is only useful for fine cuts.

The Parting tool makes about as wide and deep a parting cut you can make with the Mini Lathe. The width at d is about 0.

You merely plunge the tool where you want to cut-off a piece of work. If you need a deeper cut than it will accomplish, you finish it off with a hack saw.

All of these tools are ground to work with the cutting edge at the lathe center and the shank mounted parallel to the cross-slide travel. There is an end view of the same four Tool Bits so you can get an idea of how they are ground.

After grinding the tool points, the cutting edge will need honing. To position the tool, hold the gauge on the tool point and make sure the opposite side is parallel to the work or lathe axis.

I grind my HSS tool bits on the medium grit wheel. I have a cup of cold water for keeping the tool bits cool. After I finish grinding the desired shape, I make a final smoothing cut on the Silicon Carbide wheel which leaves a very fine finish.

Then I hone the tool bit to get it really sharp. The Aluminum Oxide wheel will not readily grind the carbide tool bits and merely heats them up and dulls the grinding wheel in the process.

The Silicon Carbide wheel grinds the Tungsten Carbide tool bits well, but the wheel wears away much faster than an Aluminum Oxide wheel.

After grinding for 10 to 15 seconds plunge the tool bit in the cold water to keep it cool. It becomes like art to continue grinding at the same place and angle between trips to the cup of cold water.

I would suggest getting a single point diamond wheel dresser. Also after you mount the grinding wheel, and tighten the nut, rotate it by hand and see if the face runs true.

If it doesn't, fuss with it a bit and try different positions until the run-out is the best you can get. This simple step helped quite a bit in reducing grinder vibrations.

Then true the face with the diamond wheel dresser. Do your grinding on the face of the wheels, not on the sides. I only engage the gears them when I cut threads or really need the longitudinal feed.

Getting a smooth finishing cut with brass or aluminum is relative easily done with a very sharp round nosed finishing HSS tool bit and a fine lead screw feed.

If you try the same thing with mild steel, it will look and feel rough in comparison. Here is something to try and see how it works.

Check the looks and feel of the cut. It will be rough to the touch and feel like a cat's tongue. Advance the tool another 0. Just this tiny amount of lubrication will make a marked difference in the smoothness of the final cut.

The lubrication will allow the chip to curl up and away from the cutting area and not get caught between the edge of the tool and the work.

This is the finest feed possible with the stock gears and here are the settings. I have installed a tiny 2.

There is a short aluminum shaft that extends to accept the motor shaft. I used a piece of bamboo shish kebab stick for a shear pin.

Don't laugh, it works! By the way, I use these bamboo shish kebab sticks for a lot of different things. They work fine for mixing epoxy, annealing case necks, and any use that requires a long shaft that is strong and flexible.

Stick with the Micro-Mark motor. It is slow, but makes a very smooth cut. Here is another source for a cheap gear motor.

All Electronics Corp has a 4. The extra speed is probably the way to go. Also while you are there, get their catalog.

It is a "must have" for goodies around the shop. They do have a number of gears in the catalog that are the same pitch as the change gears on the Mini Lathe.

The 5 gear set, 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 set mesh very nicely with the change gears. I just finished testing the installations and it works great. The tiny motor has enough torque to move the carriage with the forces required for a finishing cut.

I made a 1" long cut on a piece of aluminum and it was as smooth as mammary skin! I left the 80 tooth gear on the left end of the lead screw, but removed the "B" gear set altogether.

I can hold the 80 tooth gear by hand and it merely stalls the motor, and when I release it the motor starts back up. There is no damage to the motor when that happens.

The motor must have plenty of internal impedance to resist heating. I took a 1" long finishing cut in aluminum T6 and it took about 6 minutes.

The finish is very smooth, accurate, and nearly polished. Notice that the chips are tiny flakes and some were so fine they were actually floating in the air.

The spindle speed was about rpm and I figure the feed was about 0. Here is a picture of the finishing cut and notice the dust fine chips.

I have made a batch of Improved brass with fitted necks and I did the neck turning using the Mini Lathe and my Marquart tool. If cartridge brass is chucked in the 3-Jaw chuck, they are dented so I chucked the cartridge brass in the lathe with a brass collet.

The brass collet chucks in the 3" 3-Jaw chuck and the shoulder sets against the face of the chuck. The three slots in the brass collet give it enough flexibility to clamp the case head without yielding the brass fingers.

The vise shell holder, in the picture, is needed if you use a bench vise to hold the brass and turn the tool the old way by hand.

The dimensions of the brass collet are given. Make your own chamber length gauge for measuring the length of your rifle's chamber. Often the case lengths listed in the reloading manuals are much shorter than your rifle's chamber length.

If you trim your cases to this length, there is a large gap that the bullet must jump across as it leaves the case mouth and enters the rifling.

Here are the dimensions for making your own chamber length gauges for a few calibers. You can find the dimensions for other calibers in your reloading manual.

Machine the chamber length gauge out of what ever metal that is available, such as a steel or brass bolt, stainless steel bar, or brass.

This will give you plenty of room to make a measurement with your micrometer. Cut the chamfer at the end so the chamber length gauge will easily start in the case mouth.

Touch up the finish with some fine sand paper. Use the parting tool to cut off the chamber length gauge from the stock.

Leave the rim at diameter "B" about 0. Then turn it around and chuck on diameter "A" and carefully face off the head at diameter "B" so it is flat.

If your tool bit is not right on the center, you can take a center drill and just "start" a hole in the head so that there will not be a high spot at the center.

Smooth the end with sand paper being careful to not round the corner on the edge of the flange and it is done. For each caliber, you will need to make a special altered cartridge case to use for making the chamber length measurements.

Chuck the case and drill the primer pocket completely through with a drill about the same size as the primer pocket. This is so the plug can be pushed out from the rear after you have made a measurement to reset it for the next measurement.

Shorten the neck length by trimming about 0. This leaves clearance between the end of the neck and the flange of the plug. Neck size or Full Length size the case so the plug will be tight in the neck.

To use your new chamber length gauge to measure length, start the chamber length gauge in the neck of the specially prepared case and chamber the case in your rifle.

Extract the case and measure the over all case length with your dial calipers. Compare the length with what is listed in the reloading manual. I trim my cases so that there is about 0.

I measure my case lengths after each firing to make sure that they have not closed that gap. If the case mouth does contact the end of the chamber, it will clamp the bullet in the case mouth and excessive and dangerous pressures will result.

Often you will find that there is a large gap of 0. Here is an aluminum universal decapping die, for removing the primers from calibers 17 Ackley Hornet to Win Mag, that I made on the Mini Lathe.

At about RPM, the tool was really advancing fast. I only ran the tool into the chuck once! Of course I lost the index and had to "pick up" the thread again to continue.

I had watched everything Pop did on the lathe from the very first day he got it. Each time I used the lathe, I tried to put everything back just like it was before I started, but Pop found out.

This guide was written by CrimsonQueso , thanks for your work pal! I honestly think this is one of the best items in the game. The point is, this gives you stupid dps for a stupid low price.

Combined with armlet, you will increase your dps greatly. This should be the item after armlet in most cases or the item after the item after armlet.

Assault Cuirass is a great item. It makes you tankier and makes you hit harder and faster. If you think you can finish it relatively soon after armlet, you should go for this item instead of Styg.

If somehow you have gold after finishing your armlet and styg, this is the item to go for. This item can ensure kills against enemies that are likely to stun while escaping in the ganking phase, and the strength and damage help well.

Later on, this can be a buffer against all kinds of gay effects that will prevent you from stabbing the ones you love the most.

Rush this item before your armlet if you think you can rush it AND the enemy has: The immolation works wonders against images and helps you farm and damage.

Get this item if your team has no slows or stuns.

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